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Insert fabric strips. Asymmetrical figures may have one prominent and one flat blade. It presents innovative and tested methods of garment fitting and pattern alteration. 260 52 flat shoulder blades Pivot Method Release the shoulder seams, the darts, and the back armscye seams above the arm hinge areas. Draw each new shoulder seamline in a straight line across the stitched darts. Let out front and back seam allowances evenly along the forearm enough to restore the ease and permit the sleeve to slide freely over the arm. Separate the cut edges equally at the scyeline until the ease and comfort are restored and the arm moves freely. Form a tuck along the lengthwise center of the sleeve to remove the excess fabric and retain the ease. Inward Knee Rotation 194 30. Follow the crosswise grain. The midriff lowers into the smaller body area and appears too large. Sway Back 140 9. Stitch the waistline. 54 narrow chest/upper back BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The upper part of the rib cage is smaller than average. PDF Fitting And Pattern Alteration - help.environment.harvard.edu Let out both the back and front seam allowances evenly on each shoulder area until the lower armscye seamline lowers to a comfortable position. i '/////////////////a y////////A'/y 72 arm length variations Fashion patterns altered to fit arm length variations. Mark the new hemline parallel to the original. Narrow the darts until the shaping is correct. Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Fitting & pattern alteration : a multi-method approach by Liechty, Elizabeth G. Publication date 1986 Topics Dressmaking -- Pattern design Publisher New York : Fairchild Publications Collection . Separate the cut edges at the elbow level enough to restore the ease and to permit the sleeve to slide freely over the elbow. By slashing and spreading or overlapping along pattern lines to increase or decrease dimensions. Across the top of the cap, mark above the seamline at the center to let out an amount equal to the length adjustment of the garment. Restore the armscye size with a dart in each lower armscye area. Cut across the underarm area between the vertical slashes. Cylindrical-shaped Torso (rib cage) 270 58. Fitting Analysis The garment is baggy around the waist area. When this variation is in combination with an oval rib cage, narrow armscye extensions are required on the garment and sleeve. Attach the sleeves to the armscyes using the new armscye seamlines. Inward Rotation of the Elbow 334 84. There is no relationship between the development of muscle and frame size and that of the bust. The armscyes align properly with the body contours. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Widen the sleeve at the capline. Alteration procedures for basic pattern pieces are also applied to fashion pattern pieces. At the scyeline, take in the garment areas equally until the excess fabric is removed; retain sufficient ease. These factors decrease the body depth from the front arm hinge to that at the back. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The larger arm girth requires more fabric width from the capline to the wristline. True side seams in straight lines across the adjustments. Let out the sleeve cap seam allowance as needed for the arm joint. If only the back is too short and the dart shaping is too large, release the side seams and the side darts. Cylindrical-shaped Torso (hip area) 158 15. The length and width increase from the center of each shoulder seamline to the blade line and from armscye to armscye, respectively. At each blade, diagonal wrinkles radiate toward the armscyes. Remark and stitch the new underarm seamlines. 284 285 64 prominent bust To add length, slash across the front just below the underarm dartlines. [PDF] DOWNLOAD FREE The Fitting Book: Make Sewing Pattern Alterations Restore the length of the side seamline by measuring equal distances into the armscye and waistline seam allowances. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Widen the area across the chest or the blades. Tkper to nothing at the capline. The sleeves appear to be too tight when the arms are lifted. 264 54 narrow chest/upper back Pivot Method Mark new armscye seamlines in the garment area at the edges of the chest (blade) so that they lie in comfortable and attractive positions. The bust fitting line rises across the center front area. The sides of the body are straighter and measure slightly shorter than average from the base of the arm joints to the waist. best seller Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration ease and the pattern. Each alteration is logical and appropriate for the specific fitting problem. Release the side seams. Longer, wider darts result. Take off pattern; unpin completely. We have carefully incorporated consistency in approach. Shoulder Tip Width + 14" (0.G cm) X X X X X X 25. To gain the needed length, seperate the cut edges evenly until the strain is relieved and the waistline is level. At each location of a personal fitting adjustment, draw an arrow on the line. See 14 Cylindrical-shaped Ibrso Chip area) and 75 Large Shoulder Joints. If the sleeves are attached and the armscye is too long, adjust the sleeve cap height and the garment armscye length simultaneously. Slash Methodfitting garment only Near each side seam, slash the garment front from the armscye to the waistline. 84 large wrists BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The bone and ligament structures forming the wrist joints are heavier than average. If the sleeves have been set in, release the front (back) areas from the shoulders to the underarm areas and proceed as stated above. Thper to nothing at the waistline. Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration: Liechty, Elizabeth, Rasband, Judith, Pottberg-Steineckert, Della: 9781628929720: Amazon.com: Books Books Arts & Photography Performing Arts Enjoy fast, FREE delivery, exclusive deals and award-winning movies & TV shows with Prime For other figures, the position of the bust contour is higher than average. Capture a web page as it appears now for use as a trusted citation in the future. Thper to nothing at the shoulders and the scyeline. These factors increase the arm circumference at any point along the entire arm. See 65 Large Bust. Hip Depth X X X X X X * 10. When the fabric grains lie at right Figure 1-1 Very fitted garment angles to each other, the garment will hang evenly on both sides of the body. For example, a traditionally feminine, floral print may become bold and assertive when seen in very bright colors on a dark background; large-scale pleats may cause a small figure to look unbalanced; a row of buttons down one DESIGN ELEMENTS Line Shape Color Texture are manipulated to create DESIGN PRINCIPLES Balance Proportion Scale Rhythm Emphasis to achieve FINAL GOAL Harmony 3 4 FITTING & PATTERN ALTERATION side of a garment may create asymmetrical balance; a rough texture may dull an otherwise intense color. QUICK TIP: Start practicing using a Palmer/Pletsch Most synthetic fabrics can be straightened by pressing with a steam iron while the fabric is pinned to a porous or cork-top cutting table in a grain-perfect position. Slash Methodfitting garment only If the garment armscye has been corrected, lengthen the sleeve cap before attaching the sleeve to the garment. The lengths of the upper and lower arm bone areas develop independently. Buttoned front closures gap at bust level. Raise the neckline seam at center front and center back equal to the length adjustment at the shoulders. The garment silhouette should achieve vertical and horizontal balance and pleasing proportional relationships, and it should avoid emphasiz ing a figure variation considered undesirable. If the garment was not fitted properly, remove the excess armscye length at the shoulder seam and taper to nothing at the neckline. Center Length + M" (0.G cm) 14. Thke in the back seam width at the wrist until the adjustment is equal to the increase made at the front wrist. Straighten and shorten the darts as needed. Fitting and Pattern Alteration - Judith Rasband 2023-12-14Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration,Fourth Edition, shows readers how to recognize, evaluate, and correct t for a variety of body types, sizes,for women, men, and children. The armscyes relax and align properly along the blade and chest. Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, Third Edition, shows readers how to recognize, evaluate, and correct fit for 88 figure variations. Diagonal wrinkles radiate toward the front of the sleeve. Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, Third Edition, shows readers how to recognize, evaluate, and correct fit for 88 figure variations. These factors increase the body depth from the front arm hinge to that at the back. 79 thin arms BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The bone and muscle development is lighter than average. Arm Length Variations 308 73. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Widen and lengthen the sleeve at the elbow area. T&per to nothing at the capline. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The less-curved contour of the shoulder blades requires less fabric width and length and dart shaping. Pivot Method Adjust for width first. 83 inward rotation of the elbow BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis When the arms are relaxed, palms forward, the arm curves toward the body more than average at the elbow. Less armscye length also may be required at the shoulder. The bust fitting line and lower edges of the garment become level. Separate the cut edges evenly along the lower sleeve area enough to permit the sleeve to slide freely over the arm. Blend the new armscye into the original at the arm hinge area. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The greater profile depth requires more fabric width at the underarm area on both the sleeve and the garment. Let out the back seam at the dart area until the fabric relaxes over the elbow. You have already flagged this document.Thank you, for helping us keep this platform clean.The editors will have a look at it as soon as possible. Sleeveless armscyes ripple. The chest or the upper back muscle development and deposits of soft tissues may be heavier. We will keep fighting for all libraries - stand with us! Tkper to nothing at the underarm dart tips. Slash Methodfitting garment only Fold the arms against the front of the body. Raise the waistline seam if needed. Reshape the side panel so that the greatest curvature is at the bustline. Slash Methodfitting garment only Only the dart stitching line positions are affected. For additional front length, let out the front waistline seam evenly. Fitting Analysis The garment is too loose at the bustline. Fitting & Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth G. Liechty,Della N. Pottberg,Judith A. Rasband Pdf. We wish to thank our colleagues and Brigham Young University for their encouragement and help. If the wristline lies below the wristbone, remove the excess length with a parallel tuck around the lower sleeve area. If the underarm area is tight see 57 Cylindrical-shaped Tbrso (rib cage) and 80 Large Upper Arms. A pattern can be altered and adjusted three ways: 1. All rights reserved. The increased width relieves the strain on both the garment and the sleeves. During fitting and construction, check the gram for such distortions as bending, twisting, pulling, sagging, and wrinhng. Tkper to nothing at the scyeline and wristline. Widen each waistline dart at the side dartline to absorb the width adjustment at the side seam. Fitting Analysis The fabric sags around the waistline area and forms into a loose horizontal fold at the waistline. Thue the waistline across the adjusted darts. Soft body tissues may concentrate along the wrist area. Release the underarm seam and the darts. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The smaller profile depth requires less fabric width at the underarm area on both the sleeve and the garment. See 58 Oval-shaped Tbrso (rib cage) and 76 Small Shoulder Joints. Decrease the cap height equal to one-half the total width adjustment. Restore the back and front waistline circumferences. The increased circumference relieves the strain. Insert a fabric strip. Wise selection of clothing design can minimize the need for alteration by creating illusion, diverting attention, or effectively camouflaging an undesired figure trait. When both the upper and lower arm areas vary from ayerage, fabric length changes are required both above and below the elbow line. Follow the crosswise grain. If the cup size is a C or larger, the front of the garment is too short and too narrow. The arms can be raised easily and comfortably. The chest and blade fitting lines remain level. The garment shaping, the midriff, and the waistline align with the body contours. Measure from the fold toward the seam on both sleeves. Follow Pivot Method. Fitting Analysis The sleeve pulls taut around the elbow and inhibits elbow movement. Large Thighs at Inside 184 25. The spacing between the adjacent ribs may be greater. A more cylindrical rib cage may accompany this figure variation. 288 65 large bust To restore the waistline size, release the waistline from each dart to the side seam. Cut across the entire back area at the bustline. The choice of how the elements of design will be used is left to the individual. This is accomplished by cutting each end along one yarn, then pulling the fabric on the true bias in the direction of the shortest corners. Horizontal wrinkles form around the upper sleeve area. Fitting Analysis The fabric of the sleeves hangs in loose vertical folds from the capline to the wristline. Release the underarm darts and widen them equally at the upper dartline until the fabric lies smooth but relaxed at the edge of the bust area. Release the side seams. 320 321 76 small shoulder joints Pivot Method Before attaching the sleeves decrease each side of the cap halfway between the notch and shoulder an amount equal to the change made in the garment. Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach tothe Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and AlterationFORMAT FILE[ebook, pdf, epub, mobi pocket, audiobook, txt, doc, ppt, jpeg, chm, xml, azw, pdb, kf8, prc, tpz]LINK DOWNLOAD / READ ONLINE, CLICK NEXT PAGE. Slash Methodfitting garment only Form a parallel tuck near the waistline completely around the garment. Mark the ends of the new waist seamline at the side seam areas to restore the waistline measurements. Flared Lower Ribs 296 68. Remove the sleeves. Pattern Alteration: Techniques, Principles and Importance - Textile Learner

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